On the chill backstreets of Bangkok's tony Phloen Chit area is the Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok, part of IHG Hotels & Resorts. And it's a welcome break to the slightly corporate uber-luxury character that defines most of the city's five-star hotels. This place is incredibly chill (but still insanely comfortable – the pool is sequestered off in a sloping concrete haven covered in greenery). There's a Dalston-coded coffee shop and bakery on the ground floor, fine dining at the hotel's Avant restaurant (headed up by Singaporean chef Haikal Johari) and Bar. Yard, a rooftop bar and grill with a genuinely astonishing view of the city and some inventive Tex-Mex fusion. It's all very impressive, and without feeling pretentious.
But it's at night when the Kimpton Maa-Lai really gets pumping. The top floor turns into a club with the hotel regularly hosting local DJs that attracts a cooler, younger crowd to this part of the city. After that, slope back to your room; they're all big, light and comfortable with floor-to-ceiling windows that either look over the peaceful Dutch embassy gardens or Bangkok's Lumphini Park. It's a peaceful little oasis that's surprisingly quiet given how central it is.
If you want something that just feels more international, stay at IHG Hotels & Resorts' Intercontinental Bangkok. It's everything you'd expect from a five-star hotel in Bangkok; the lobby is a sweeping, spotless shrine to marble, the service is impeccable and spacious rooms are on par with any luxury hotel in the world where there's multiple people manning the door.
Don't expect the food to be traditional gourmet stuff, though. On the ground floor is SoCal, relaxed Californian dining that makes for a great lunch (the lobster tostada is a belter). Upstairs, the Summer Palace is authentic Chinese cuisine. Then, there's the Balcony Lounge which is old school glam with a jazz band that comes in several times a week. Factor in a luxury spa and a rooftop pool, and the Intercontinental is ticking all the boxes for a few days in a very busy city.
The best part is the Intercontinental Bangkok's location. Luxury shopping centre EmQuartier is just across the road (there's Dolce & Gabbana, Off-White, Valentino, Emporio Armani, Prada, Balenciaga – all of 'em!) and the historical tourist spots are easily accessible by a cab.
The big dog of Bangkok shopping malls, Icon Siam has everything from Cos, H&M and Nike to Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent. Given the sheer size, its a tourist attraction in itself and you could spend hours in here buying shopping certain designer drops you might not find back home.
Billing itself as Thailand's “first largest world-class shopping centre and entertainment complex”, Siam Paragon isn't as commercial as other malls, and thus a tiny bit quieter. There's several stores from the luxury names you'd expect (Gucci, Celine, Prada etc), but Siam Paragon is also a place for jewellery and watches with a Panerai, Cartier and Bulgari, among others.
OK, so Central Embassy is a little younger (and cooler) than most other malls in Bangkok, which can feel a little over-opulent. For one, there's Bangkok's only Stüssy store, plus Palm Angels, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger.
EmQuartier feels like the most futuristic of the big Bangkok malls, with the layered architecture and greenery being a little more visually appealing than the generic shopping centre format. Plus, many locals say it might just be the best for designer shopping with Dior, and Thai concept store Another Story that sits preppy brands alongside sportswear and local merch pastiche label Bangkokian.
Bangkok's best night market is a little distance away from the centre (take a taxi, or the MRT Yellow Line to Suan Luang Rama IX station). The journey is worth it, though. Because at Srinagarindra (also known as Srinikarin Train Market), there's over 2,000 stalls in an open air market (vintage bags from the ‘70s seem to be plentiful here). But the best part? It's become a bit of a thing with the city's young creatives, and you'll largely be in the minority as a tourist.
Open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 6pm, Chatuchak is huge. And, as the most well-known of Bangkok's night market, it is busy. That makes it a great place to experience the general vibe. But if you dig a little deeper beyond the mass tourist elephant pants (of which there's plenty at Chatuchak), you'll find an entire section dedicated to vintage; enter Chatuchak Park, turn to the left and walk until you see an exit to Chatuchak Weekend Market to land yourself right in the second-hand hotspot.
Regarded as something of an open secret in Bangkok, Ramkhamhaeng is smaller and quieter. That makes it an easier shopping experience though, and it's mostly locals that enjoy the food and atmosphere (which might hint at why prices can be a little cheaper at Ramkhamhaeng).
Unlike most markets, Pratunam is held during the day. It's also much easier to get to, and it has tonnes of clothing new and old – providing you get there early. Since Thailand's temperatures can get pretty spicy during the afternoon, Pratunam Market's peak trade is in the morning.
Woodensubmarine, near Ratchathewi, is gem. The menswear scene in Thailand is pretty obsessed with vintage Americana, and the good folk at Woodensubmarine are veterans at customising old military surplus and beat up utility jackets.
This store is on the pricier end of the Bangkok vintage scene, but it has sourced genuine military apparel from all over the world and condensed it into one streamlined, cohesive collection. Think beat-up grail denim, old caps from Vietnam and even some old US army sterling jewellery.
You're all but guaranteed a deal at the Trapeze Swingers, a store that combines second-hand clothing with old school vinyl. The team routinely peppers the collection with designer too; vintage Lanvin, Givenchy and Cerruti have all past through its doorway on the banks of the Chao Phraya River.
Big black overcoats, crisp white shirts, wide leg trousers that belong on a hard-boiled detective circa 1972 – you can find all of that stuff at Greyhound. It's been around since 1980, and since then, has become the brand for young Thai people that like slicked back hair and sunglasses at night.
For insanely elegant menswear, designer Vvon Sugunnasil is like a cross between The Row in all its luxury simplicity, and the 3am glam of London's 16Arlington. There's a bespoke service too, with Sugunnasil being a deft hand at slightly left-field black tie and razor-sharp tailoring.
A denimhead's paradise, Nama Denim is the brainchild of Vishesh Sachdev and Nikhil Rattanaphas, two Thai designers with a family history in manufacturing. But rather than go mass, Nama Denim focuses on the finest Japanese selvedge with fully customisable options.
You might see plenty of signs for bespoke suits in and around Bangkok, but few come close to those by JBB. As a tailor that focuses on traditional methods, you can get a classic suit from the brand's Gaysorn Tower atelier. The cottons are from Japan. The wools are from Italy. The suits are from the sharpest guy in Bangkok.
For a more old school custom suit experience, go to Pinky Tailor. Still run by the guy with his name above the door (and his son, Win), the reviews glow across the board. And if you're a little green to the whole custom game, don't worry; Pinky Tailor is known for being friendly, and reasonably-priced.
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